Used boat: Bargain or boondoggle?
Outdoors column by Jerry Gerardi
Summer is boating time. Trouble is, new boats cost big bucks. No problem, just get yourself a pre-owned one.
But be careful before you plunk down your cash. There are some pitfalls you must avoid.
To help you avoid those pitfalls when you finally do find the love of your life, here are a few tips obtained from experts in the boat- and motor-repair business (and a few blunders by yours truly). Heed the advice and you can save yourself a lot of money and heartache.
When you examine a boat, take your time and be methodical. Start at one end and carefully check it out as you circle the craft. A good plan would be to start at the stern and end there.
Look for cracks in the transom. Small, hairline splits in the gelcoat (that's the smooth outer layer of fiberglass that has the color in it) might hide more serious problems. The wood in the transom might have split, causing the glass to crack.
Another transom problem is where holes left by old mountings were not properly plugged, or where there are bubbles in the fiberglass. They could be letting water in that will eventually rot the wood. If there is rotted wood in the transom, it must be repaired or replaced. The wood in the transom is what provides strength to support the motor in an outboard and the out-drive in an inboard/outboard.
For small sections of rotted wood, a product called Git Rot works well. Poured on the rotted wood, it results in a repair stronger than the original wood. More extensive rot is trouble and difficult to repair.
Be sure to check out her bottom. Look for more cracks, bubbles or actual holes.
Old patches should be tested for soundness and her keel thumped with a knuckle or rubber mallet. If you hear a hollow sound, chances are fiberglass has separated from the wood keel. This could result in the glass cracking under stress.
Repairing the problem can be tricky. Better let someone with a lot of fiberglass experience check it out.
Also be sure to look at the steering cable or cables. There should be no cuts or cracks in the outer covering.
Minor repairs can be made with tape and WD 40 or CRC. Spray the area with a saturating coat of a marine penetrating lube like CRC or LPS. Wipe away the excess from around the bare spot or crack and tape it over tightly with a weatherproof tape. The object is to keep moisture out and stop existing corrosion. Serious cracks must be replaced.
Check the steering head (the part where the cable attaches and the steering wheel mounts) for looseness.
Turn the steering wheel and look for excessive slop or play. This could indicate simply loose mounting bolts or, worse case, worn gears. Uncorrected, you might find yourself zigging when you want to be zagging. Bummer. It's a repair you can do yourself.
Check out the bling
The condition of chrome trim is an indicator of the shape of the metal it plates. Pits and corrosion could mean the metal underneath is not in the best of condition. Ski bars, bow eyes, and tow rings are especially vulnerable. They undergo severe stress. If you find surface damage or corrosion, look closer.
Engine condition is just as important as hull condition. For starters, check the propeller. It should not be broken, chipped or bent severely. A slightly bent prop isn't too bad, since it usually can be straightened. Minor chips in the blades can be filed down. However, heavily damaged propellers will need reconditioning (at moderate expense).
The skeg on the bottom of an outboard motor shouldn't be bent or broken. A damaged or bent skeg can have a bad effect on a boat's steering, especially on high-horsepower engines.
Pull the plug on the lower unit to check for leaks. Only oil should come out. Water mixed with the oil (often coming out as a milky liquid) indicates the seals are leaking and need to be replaced. Water in the lower unit can result in rusted gears and bearings. Fishing line wrapped behind the propeller is the most common cause of seal leaks.
Pull the prop, as they sometimes get corroded onto the shaft and must be removed with a torch. That's expensive, since you'll need to replace the entire prop.
Overall corrosion on the motor can be an indicator of the care it has had. If there's a lot of rust and corrosion on the outside, chances are there's a lot on the inside too.
Look for corrosion in the electrical system, especially the connections. Check for a green powder on connectors and cables. If you spot any, be ready to repair or replace the part.
Finally, get her motor running. The basic step of running the engine is often skipped by buyers blinded by the gleam of the dream boat they just found. Don't fall for the old “dead battery” line. It could prove costly. Also be aware that very old motors are tough to fix. Only a few shops will repair them.
Listen for knocks, clanks, scrapes or any other unusual noise. Make sure the water pump is working and the water that comes out is not too hot to touch.
Shift the gears. Gear changing should be smooth and quiet. A failure here could just be a maladjusted shift cable or bad gears that will cost big bucks.
If you're looking at an outboard motor, grasp the engine cover, rock and twist it firmly and look for movement in the motor. That would indicate bad motor mounts (a real pain to fix).
Also, check accessories such as lights, power trim and tilt, baitwell and bilge pumps, etc. You don't want surprises later.
A test drive is important
If everything checks out, and you're serious about buying the boat, try it in the water. Running the engine with a garden hose isn't the same as running under a load. A test run also lets you see if there's a handling or power problem.
Don't forget to check the trailer. Look for excessive rust that might be weakening the frame. Light rust can be chipped, scraped and the trailer painted with a rust-preventive paint or a cold-galvanizing spray. Rusty springs are a given, but easily replaced.
Wheel bearings should turn smoothly, with little noise. Rims must not be rusted to the hubs. Tire and rim condition should be checked, and while you're at it, try the lights.
If you aren't sure about checking out a boat yourself, most marine repair services will do it for you. And by having a pro check it, you can get an accurate estimate of any costs for repairs. Present this information to the person selling and you just might get a break on the price.
