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Showing posts with label How to buy a boat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label How to buy a boat. Show all posts
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
Used boat: Bargain or boondoggle?
Used boat: Bargain or boondoggle?
Outdoors column by Jerry Gerardi
Summer is boating time. Trouble is, new boats cost big bucks. No problem, just get yourself a pre-owned one.
But be careful before you plunk down your cash. There are some pitfalls you must avoid.
To help you avoid those pitfalls when you finally do find the love of your life, here are a few tips obtained from experts in the boat- and motor-repair business (and a few blunders by yours truly). Heed the advice and you can save yourself a lot of money and heartache.
When you examine a boat, take your time and be methodical. Start at one end and carefully check it out as you circle the craft. A good plan would be to start at the stern and end there.
Look for cracks in the transom. Small, hairline splits in the gelcoat (that's the smooth outer layer of fiberglass that has the color in it) might hide more serious problems. The wood in the transom might have split, causing the glass to crack.
Another transom problem is where holes left by old mountings were not properly plugged, or where there are bubbles in the fiberglass. They could be letting water in that will eventually rot the wood. If there is rotted wood in the transom, it must be repaired or replaced. The wood in the transom is what provides strength to support the motor in an outboard and the out-drive in an inboard/outboard.
For small sections of rotted wood, a product called Git Rot works well. Poured on the rotted wood, it results in a repair stronger than the original wood. More extensive rot is trouble and difficult to repair.
Be sure to check out her bottom. Look for more cracks, bubbles or actual holes.
Old patches should be tested for soundness and her keel thumped with a knuckle or rubber mallet. If you hear a hollow sound, chances are fiberglass has separated from the wood keel. This could result in the glass cracking under stress.
Repairing the problem can be tricky. Better let someone with a lot of fiberglass experience check it out.
Also be sure to look at the steering cable or cables. There should be no cuts or cracks in the outer covering.
Minor repairs can be made with tape and WD 40 or CRC. Spray the area with a saturating coat of a marine penetrating lube like CRC or LPS. Wipe away the excess from around the bare spot or crack and tape it over tightly with a weatherproof tape. The object is to keep moisture out and stop existing corrosion. Serious cracks must be replaced.
Check the steering head (the part where the cable attaches and the steering wheel mounts) for looseness.
Turn the steering wheel and look for excessive slop or play. This could indicate simply loose mounting bolts or, worse case, worn gears. Uncorrected, you might find yourself zigging when you want to be zagging. Bummer. It's a repair you can do yourself.
Check out the bling
The condition of chrome trim is an indicator of the shape of the metal it plates. Pits and corrosion could mean the metal underneath is not in the best of condition. Ski bars, bow eyes, and tow rings are especially vulnerable. They undergo severe stress. If you find surface damage or corrosion, look closer.
Engine condition is just as important as hull condition. For starters, check the propeller. It should not be broken, chipped or bent severely. A slightly bent prop isn't too bad, since it usually can be straightened. Minor chips in the blades can be filed down. However, heavily damaged propellers will need reconditioning (at moderate expense).
The skeg on the bottom of an outboard motor shouldn't be bent or broken. A damaged or bent skeg can have a bad effect on a boat's steering, especially on high-horsepower engines.
Pull the plug on the lower unit to check for leaks. Only oil should come out. Water mixed with the oil (often coming out as a milky liquid) indicates the seals are leaking and need to be replaced. Water in the lower unit can result in rusted gears and bearings. Fishing line wrapped behind the propeller is the most common cause of seal leaks.
Pull the prop, as they sometimes get corroded onto the shaft and must be removed with a torch. That's expensive, since you'll need to replace the entire prop.
Overall corrosion on the motor can be an indicator of the care it has had. If there's a lot of rust and corrosion on the outside, chances are there's a lot on the inside too.
Look for corrosion in the electrical system, especially the connections. Check for a green powder on connectors and cables. If you spot any, be ready to repair or replace the part.
Finally, get her motor running. The basic step of running the engine is often skipped by buyers blinded by the gleam of the dream boat they just found. Don't fall for the old “dead battery” line. It could prove costly. Also be aware that very old motors are tough to fix. Only a few shops will repair them.
Listen for knocks, clanks, scrapes or any other unusual noise. Make sure the water pump is working and the water that comes out is not too hot to touch.
Shift the gears. Gear changing should be smooth and quiet. A failure here could just be a maladjusted shift cable or bad gears that will cost big bucks.
If you're looking at an outboard motor, grasp the engine cover, rock and twist it firmly and look for movement in the motor. That would indicate bad motor mounts (a real pain to fix).
Also, check accessories such as lights, power trim and tilt, baitwell and bilge pumps, etc. You don't want surprises later.
A test drive is important
If everything checks out, and you're serious about buying the boat, try it in the water. Running the engine with a garden hose isn't the same as running under a load. A test run also lets you see if there's a handling or power problem.
Don't forget to check the trailer. Look for excessive rust that might be weakening the frame. Light rust can be chipped, scraped and the trailer painted with a rust-preventive paint or a cold-galvanizing spray. Rusty springs are a given, but easily replaced.
Wheel bearings should turn smoothly, with little noise. Rims must not be rusted to the hubs. Tire and rim condition should be checked, and while you're at it, try the lights.
If you aren't sure about checking out a boat yourself, most marine repair services will do it for you. And by having a pro check it, you can get an accurate estimate of any costs for repairs. Present this information to the person selling and you just might get a break on the price.
Outdoors column by Jerry Gerardi
Summer is boating time. Trouble is, new boats cost big bucks. No problem, just get yourself a pre-owned one.
But be careful before you plunk down your cash. There are some pitfalls you must avoid.
To help you avoid those pitfalls when you finally do find the love of your life, here are a few tips obtained from experts in the boat- and motor-repair business (and a few blunders by yours truly). Heed the advice and you can save yourself a lot of money and heartache.
When you examine a boat, take your time and be methodical. Start at one end and carefully check it out as you circle the craft. A good plan would be to start at the stern and end there.
Look for cracks in the transom. Small, hairline splits in the gelcoat (that's the smooth outer layer of fiberglass that has the color in it) might hide more serious problems. The wood in the transom might have split, causing the glass to crack.
Another transom problem is where holes left by old mountings were not properly plugged, or where there are bubbles in the fiberglass. They could be letting water in that will eventually rot the wood. If there is rotted wood in the transom, it must be repaired or replaced. The wood in the transom is what provides strength to support the motor in an outboard and the out-drive in an inboard/outboard.
For small sections of rotted wood, a product called Git Rot works well. Poured on the rotted wood, it results in a repair stronger than the original wood. More extensive rot is trouble and difficult to repair.
Be sure to check out her bottom. Look for more cracks, bubbles or actual holes.
Old patches should be tested for soundness and her keel thumped with a knuckle or rubber mallet. If you hear a hollow sound, chances are fiberglass has separated from the wood keel. This could result in the glass cracking under stress.
Repairing the problem can be tricky. Better let someone with a lot of fiberglass experience check it out.
Also be sure to look at the steering cable or cables. There should be no cuts or cracks in the outer covering.
Minor repairs can be made with tape and WD 40 or CRC. Spray the area with a saturating coat of a marine penetrating lube like CRC or LPS. Wipe away the excess from around the bare spot or crack and tape it over tightly with a weatherproof tape. The object is to keep moisture out and stop existing corrosion. Serious cracks must be replaced.
Check the steering head (the part where the cable attaches and the steering wheel mounts) for looseness.
Turn the steering wheel and look for excessive slop or play. This could indicate simply loose mounting bolts or, worse case, worn gears. Uncorrected, you might find yourself zigging when you want to be zagging. Bummer. It's a repair you can do yourself.
Check out the bling
The condition of chrome trim is an indicator of the shape of the metal it plates. Pits and corrosion could mean the metal underneath is not in the best of condition. Ski bars, bow eyes, and tow rings are especially vulnerable. They undergo severe stress. If you find surface damage or corrosion, look closer.
Engine condition is just as important as hull condition. For starters, check the propeller. It should not be broken, chipped or bent severely. A slightly bent prop isn't too bad, since it usually can be straightened. Minor chips in the blades can be filed down. However, heavily damaged propellers will need reconditioning (at moderate expense).
The skeg on the bottom of an outboard motor shouldn't be bent or broken. A damaged or bent skeg can have a bad effect on a boat's steering, especially on high-horsepower engines.
Pull the plug on the lower unit to check for leaks. Only oil should come out. Water mixed with the oil (often coming out as a milky liquid) indicates the seals are leaking and need to be replaced. Water in the lower unit can result in rusted gears and bearings. Fishing line wrapped behind the propeller is the most common cause of seal leaks.
Pull the prop, as they sometimes get corroded onto the shaft and must be removed with a torch. That's expensive, since you'll need to replace the entire prop.
Overall corrosion on the motor can be an indicator of the care it has had. If there's a lot of rust and corrosion on the outside, chances are there's a lot on the inside too.
Look for corrosion in the electrical system, especially the connections. Check for a green powder on connectors and cables. If you spot any, be ready to repair or replace the part.
Finally, get her motor running. The basic step of running the engine is often skipped by buyers blinded by the gleam of the dream boat they just found. Don't fall for the old “dead battery” line. It could prove costly. Also be aware that very old motors are tough to fix. Only a few shops will repair them.
Listen for knocks, clanks, scrapes or any other unusual noise. Make sure the water pump is working and the water that comes out is not too hot to touch.
Shift the gears. Gear changing should be smooth and quiet. A failure here could just be a maladjusted shift cable or bad gears that will cost big bucks.
If you're looking at an outboard motor, grasp the engine cover, rock and twist it firmly and look for movement in the motor. That would indicate bad motor mounts (a real pain to fix).
Also, check accessories such as lights, power trim and tilt, baitwell and bilge pumps, etc. You don't want surprises later.
A test drive is important
If everything checks out, and you're serious about buying the boat, try it in the water. Running the engine with a garden hose isn't the same as running under a load. A test run also lets you see if there's a handling or power problem.
Don't forget to check the trailer. Look for excessive rust that might be weakening the frame. Light rust can be chipped, scraped and the trailer painted with a rust-preventive paint or a cold-galvanizing spray. Rusty springs are a given, but easily replaced.
Wheel bearings should turn smoothly, with little noise. Rims must not be rusted to the hubs. Tire and rim condition should be checked, and while you're at it, try the lights.
If you aren't sure about checking out a boat yourself, most marine repair services will do it for you. And by having a pro check it, you can get an accurate estimate of any costs for repairs. Present this information to the person selling and you just might get a break on the price.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
First-time boat buyer tips
First-time boat buyer tips
May 30 2007
While boating is fun, finding a boat can be a tough task. Numerous things can impact the decision-making process when you’re looking to buy a boat, be it usage issues, storage concerns or, perhaps most influential, the price tag.
Usage
If you’ll be using the boat as your getaway for weekend fishing trips or just to go out for an early morning sail, then buying a bigger boat would be foolish and more expensive. However, if you want a boat on which you can take friends and family, then buying a smaller boat would be foolish. A large boat consumes more fuel, yet a small craft may not fit enough family members and therefore not be used as often.
Another thing to consider with respect to usage and location is how often you’ll be using the boat and how much you’ll be switching locales. If you plan on taking your boat out to several different spots, then the boat you buy should be one that can easily fit on a trailer. This means you’ll want a smaller boat that is not a hassle every time you want to take it out.
If you want your boat for overnight trips, the availabiltiy of sleeping accomodations is vital.
Having a boat that cannot handle the waters you’ll be on can make your trip – be it a day or overnight one – a rough sail more akin to a nightmare than a relaxing daydream.
Ask some local sailors, who will know what boats go best with the waters in your specific area.
Type of boat
Selecting your boat based on it’s function is important.
If you want a boat solely for fishing purposes, you have many options. These can greatly range in price and size.
Typically, a fishing boat will have in convenience what it lacks in comfort. This is mainly because catching fish can be a messy experience, making maintenance a constant concern.
Fishing boats vary in size and function, with the less expensive all-purpose ones boasting a few seats and ample space for fishing gear. The more expensive boats, such as offshore sportfishing vessels are good for both fishing and entertaining family and friends.
Power boats come in many different designs and boast a variety of uses, but are usually intended for people looking to entertain friends and have a good time.
Sailboats are popular, but sailing a sailboat can be extremely difficult, requiring training and skill.
Schooling alongside an experienced sailor on their boat would be your best bet before hitting the open waters on your own.
http://www.vicnews.com/portals-code/list.cgi?paper=36&cat=46&id=994313&more=0
May 30 2007
While boating is fun, finding a boat can be a tough task. Numerous things can impact the decision-making process when you’re looking to buy a boat, be it usage issues, storage concerns or, perhaps most influential, the price tag.
Usage
If you’ll be using the boat as your getaway for weekend fishing trips or just to go out for an early morning sail, then buying a bigger boat would be foolish and more expensive. However, if you want a boat on which you can take friends and family, then buying a smaller boat would be foolish. A large boat consumes more fuel, yet a small craft may not fit enough family members and therefore not be used as often.
Another thing to consider with respect to usage and location is how often you’ll be using the boat and how much you’ll be switching locales. If you plan on taking your boat out to several different spots, then the boat you buy should be one that can easily fit on a trailer. This means you’ll want a smaller boat that is not a hassle every time you want to take it out.
If you want your boat for overnight trips, the availabiltiy of sleeping accomodations is vital.
Having a boat that cannot handle the waters you’ll be on can make your trip – be it a day or overnight one – a rough sail more akin to a nightmare than a relaxing daydream.
Ask some local sailors, who will know what boats go best with the waters in your specific area.
Type of boat
Selecting your boat based on it’s function is important.
If you want a boat solely for fishing purposes, you have many options. These can greatly range in price and size.
Typically, a fishing boat will have in convenience what it lacks in comfort. This is mainly because catching fish can be a messy experience, making maintenance a constant concern.
Fishing boats vary in size and function, with the less expensive all-purpose ones boasting a few seats and ample space for fishing gear. The more expensive boats, such as offshore sportfishing vessels are good for both fishing and entertaining family and friends.
Power boats come in many different designs and boast a variety of uses, but are usually intended for people looking to entertain friends and have a good time.
Sailboats are popular, but sailing a sailboat can be extremely difficult, requiring training and skill.
Schooling alongside an experienced sailor on their boat would be your best bet before hitting the open waters on your own.
http://www.vicnews.com/portals-code/list.cgi?paper=36&cat=46&id=994313&more=0
Friday, May 4, 2007
Must Have Boating Equipment
Must Have Boating Equipment
Don't Leave the Dock Without It!
With the boating season just around the corner for many of us and already here for other folks around the country, it’s time to make sure your boat is really ready for a great season of boating fun. After polishing your hull , applying a new coat of bottom paint and getting the engine up and running, it’s a good time to check all your other equipment as well.
With that in mind, here is a list of equipment that is required on board motorized vessels in U.S. waters. However, safety equipment requirements vary from country to country, so boaters need check the requirements of the country where they plan to do their boating. All that being said, any “good” skipper, anywhere, will have the following equipment/items on board his boat anyway.
• Owner’s/ Ship’s Documents:
Carry either State registration or documentation papers.
Since 9-11, the U.S. Coast Guard is also going to ask you to produce a pictured identification card, such as a driver’s license.
• PFDs:
PFDs (Personal Floatation Devices) are life jackets and you must have one for every person on board and they MUST fit properly to be effective. An adult sized life jacket for a child is NOT acceptable. An improper fitting child’s life jacket may end up drowning the child instead of saving its life!
• Throwable Flotation Device:
An example of a throwable flotation device would be a life ring or a flotation cushion, one of those with the two straps, etc. All vessels 16 ft. and over must have one or more of these aboard.
• Fire Extinguisher:
A Coast Guard approved fire extinguisher must be aboard any boat that has an engine in an enclosed space or a fuel tank that is in a compartment. The needle in the gage on the extinguisher must be pointing to the green area of the dial. The larger the boat, the more fire extinguishers/fire suppression systems you are required to have.
• Visual Distress Signals:
Visual distress signals are required for both day and nighttime sightings. Distress signals, such as red flares, universal distress flags, orange smoke, etc., must be aboard all powerboats operating in federally controlled waters. Also remember, these devices must be current, i.e. not past the expiration date which is printed on each one.
• Proper Ventilation:
All gasoline powerboats with an inboard engine, permanently installed fuel tanks and an enclosed bilge area, must be properly ventilated. Also, all gasoline powerboats built after 1 August 1980 must have a working bilge blower with a reminder sign (to run the blower) located near the ignition switch.
• Flame Arrestor:
All gasoline powered boats (except outboards) must have a Coast Guard approved backfire, flame arrestor attached to each carburetor or throttle body. Remember, they must not be covered with grease or oil. Therefore, cleaning your flame arrestor every spring is a must!
• Sound Making Device:
All vessels operating in federally controlled waters must have a working horn or whistle aboard. For a small boat, a hand-held whistle will suffice. For vessels less than 65.6 ft. long, the whistle or horn must be capable of producing a blast of 4 seconds and be audible for at least ½ mile.
• Navigation Lights:
All power vessels, that are allowed to operate after sunset, must have a working set of navigation lights consisting of:
* A Green Light – showing from dead-ahead to 112.5 degrees down the starboard (right) side of your boat.
* A Red Light – showing from dead-ahead to 112.5 degrees down the port (left) side of your boat.
* A White Masthead Light - showing through the entire 225 degrees covered by both the Green and the Red lights combined.
* A White Stern Light - that shows from dead-astern to 67.5 degrees on both sides of the stern (a total area of 135 degrees).
* Add all these numbers together (starboard, port & stern or masthead & stern) and they add up to 360 degrees of visible light identifying your boat.
That's it; the list of equipment that you MUST have aboard your vessel. Don't leave the dock without it. When boarded for a law enforcement safety inspection, failure to produce any of this equipment could result in a big fine and/or termination of your voyage. Make sure you have all this aboard and in good working condition so that you can pass a safety inspection at any time. This list is of required items, but in another article, I discuss optional equipment that any responsible skipper should consider having on board his boat.
So, are we ready to launch?
Don't Leave the Dock Without It!
With the boating season just around the corner for many of us and already here for other folks around the country, it’s time to make sure your boat is really ready for a great season of boating fun. After polishing your hull , applying a new coat of bottom paint and getting the engine up and running, it’s a good time to check all your other equipment as well.
With that in mind, here is a list of equipment that is required on board motorized vessels in U.S. waters. However, safety equipment requirements vary from country to country, so boaters need check the requirements of the country where they plan to do their boating. All that being said, any “good” skipper, anywhere, will have the following equipment/items on board his boat anyway.
• Owner’s/ Ship’s Documents:
Carry either State registration or documentation papers.
Since 9-11, the U.S. Coast Guard is also going to ask you to produce a pictured identification card, such as a driver’s license.
• PFDs:
PFDs (Personal Floatation Devices) are life jackets and you must have one for every person on board and they MUST fit properly to be effective. An adult sized life jacket for a child is NOT acceptable. An improper fitting child’s life jacket may end up drowning the child instead of saving its life!
• Throwable Flotation Device:
An example of a throwable flotation device would be a life ring or a flotation cushion, one of those with the two straps, etc. All vessels 16 ft. and over must have one or more of these aboard.
• Fire Extinguisher:
A Coast Guard approved fire extinguisher must be aboard any boat that has an engine in an enclosed space or a fuel tank that is in a compartment. The needle in the gage on the extinguisher must be pointing to the green area of the dial. The larger the boat, the more fire extinguishers/fire suppression systems you are required to have.
• Visual Distress Signals:
Visual distress signals are required for both day and nighttime sightings. Distress signals, such as red flares, universal distress flags, orange smoke, etc., must be aboard all powerboats operating in federally controlled waters. Also remember, these devices must be current, i.e. not past the expiration date which is printed on each one.
• Proper Ventilation:
All gasoline powerboats with an inboard engine, permanently installed fuel tanks and an enclosed bilge area, must be properly ventilated. Also, all gasoline powerboats built after 1 August 1980 must have a working bilge blower with a reminder sign (to run the blower) located near the ignition switch.
• Flame Arrestor:
All gasoline powered boats (except outboards) must have a Coast Guard approved backfire, flame arrestor attached to each carburetor or throttle body. Remember, they must not be covered with grease or oil. Therefore, cleaning your flame arrestor every spring is a must!
• Sound Making Device:
All vessels operating in federally controlled waters must have a working horn or whistle aboard. For a small boat, a hand-held whistle will suffice. For vessels less than 65.6 ft. long, the whistle or horn must be capable of producing a blast of 4 seconds and be audible for at least ½ mile.
• Navigation Lights:
All power vessels, that are allowed to operate after sunset, must have a working set of navigation lights consisting of:
* A Green Light – showing from dead-ahead to 112.5 degrees down the starboard (right) side of your boat.
* A Red Light – showing from dead-ahead to 112.5 degrees down the port (left) side of your boat.
* A White Masthead Light - showing through the entire 225 degrees covered by both the Green and the Red lights combined.
* A White Stern Light - that shows from dead-astern to 67.5 degrees on both sides of the stern (a total area of 135 degrees).
* Add all these numbers together (starboard, port & stern or masthead & stern) and they add up to 360 degrees of visible light identifying your boat.
That's it; the list of equipment that you MUST have aboard your vessel. Don't leave the dock without it. When boarded for a law enforcement safety inspection, failure to produce any of this equipment could result in a big fine and/or termination of your voyage. Make sure you have all this aboard and in good working condition so that you can pass a safety inspection at any time. This list is of required items, but in another article, I discuss optional equipment that any responsible skipper should consider having on board his boat.
So, are we ready to launch?
Boating Equipment
Boating Equipment
Equipment That Every Boat Needs
• Dock Lines:
According to nationwide insurance statistics, most of the damage claims filed by boat owners are for damage done to their boats when they are tied to the dock. Using the wrong size and/or type of mooring lines is inviting trouble. The lack of knowledge about the proper way to use those dock lines greatly increases your chances for boat damage. When rough stormy weather occurs or the wake from other boats in the marina takes place, you are much more likely to sustain damage to your boat if it's not correctly tied up.
• Anchors and Anchor Lines:
Anchors aren't just for picnics or for spending the night at anchor.
An anchor is an important piece of safety equipment that could stop your boat from being driven ashore if your engine fails. Take a look at Anchors and Ground Tackle and practice the important anchoring procedures. Remember, having the correct amount of anchor line deployed when you anchor will determine whether or not your anchor holds. Your life just could depend on it!
• VHF Marine Radio:
VHF means Very High Frequency. If you plan to take your boat out on a large body of water, you should have a VHF radio aboard, either mounted or a hand held model. Take a look at The Marine VHF Radiotelephone for tips on the VHF radio and how to use it for your safety.
• Chart and Compass:
If you're going to go more than 100 yards from the shore, you SHOULD have (if you're a prudent skipper) a good magnetic compass installed. Did you know that your compass rarely points to true North? For safety sake, yours, and your crew, you should have on board, a current chart of the area where you are planning to cruise.
• Bilge Pump:
I love the water, but not when it's in the bilge of my boat! Every boat, without exception, should have some sort of dewatering device aboard. Dewatering devices can range from a simple bucket to a highly sophisticated system of electric pumps. Whatever works for your boat!
• Fenders:
Fenders are those round things that hang over the side of a boat to protect it from damage by other boats or docks. Landlubbers and boating "Newbies" may call them "bumpers", but they really are called "fenders". Remember, in order for fenders to protect your investment (boat), they must be large enough to do the job. Don't put 8" fenders on a 50' boat.
• Tool Kit:
You've heard of "Murphy's Law' right? Murphy was an optimist! Be sure to have a decent set of mechanics tools aboard should you have to make some unexpected repairs. Also, have some basic spare parts with you. Things like extra filters, drive belts, hoses, etc. can make all the difference between completing an enjoyable cruise and spending hours (days) waiting for a busy mechanic to fix your problem.
• Boat Hook:
Never, never, never stick a hand or a leg over the side of a moving boat to "help' in a docking or undocking situation. That's what a boat hook is for. Boat hooks can be repaired or replaced. The same can't always be said for arms, hands and legs.
• Good Flashlight:
Take my word for it, sooner or later you're really going to need one and when you do, you'll want one handy. Also, I suggest a secret stash of fresh batteries somewhere onboard. With nine grandchildren, my flashlights always seem to have dead batteries.
• First Aid Kit:
Bumps, bruises and cuts are pretty common occurrences when participating in water sports such as fishing, skiing, wakeboarding, etc. Therefore, a good first-aid kit should be a "Must Have Aboard" item.
• Sun Screen:
When it is sunny, you get a double dose of UV rays, both directly from the sun and indirectly from the reflection off the water. A water resistant sun screen of SPF 30 or more for skin protection should be a must have.
• Drinking Water:
I'm talking only pure water here; beer and soda don't count. If you're going to be out on the water for more than an hour or so, you should have at least a quart of water on board for each person aboard.
So, that's it; a short list of optional equipment. Everyone will probably have additional suggestions for "must have" items that a prudent skipper should have aboard. Plus, don't forget to take along all the mandatory equipment that the law requires. Well, it seems as if you're pretty well equipped now, so go enjoy your boating and remember, "Let's be safe out there"!
Equipment That Every Boat Needs
• Dock Lines:
According to nationwide insurance statistics, most of the damage claims filed by boat owners are for damage done to their boats when they are tied to the dock. Using the wrong size and/or type of mooring lines is inviting trouble. The lack of knowledge about the proper way to use those dock lines greatly increases your chances for boat damage. When rough stormy weather occurs or the wake from other boats in the marina takes place, you are much more likely to sustain damage to your boat if it's not correctly tied up.
• Anchors and Anchor Lines:
Anchors aren't just for picnics or for spending the night at anchor.
An anchor is an important piece of safety equipment that could stop your boat from being driven ashore if your engine fails. Take a look at Anchors and Ground Tackle and practice the important anchoring procedures. Remember, having the correct amount of anchor line deployed when you anchor will determine whether or not your anchor holds. Your life just could depend on it!
• VHF Marine Radio:
VHF means Very High Frequency. If you plan to take your boat out on a large body of water, you should have a VHF radio aboard, either mounted or a hand held model. Take a look at The Marine VHF Radiotelephone for tips on the VHF radio and how to use it for your safety.
• Chart and Compass:
If you're going to go more than 100 yards from the shore, you SHOULD have (if you're a prudent skipper) a good magnetic compass installed. Did you know that your compass rarely points to true North? For safety sake, yours, and your crew, you should have on board, a current chart of the area where you are planning to cruise.
• Bilge Pump:
I love the water, but not when it's in the bilge of my boat! Every boat, without exception, should have some sort of dewatering device aboard. Dewatering devices can range from a simple bucket to a highly sophisticated system of electric pumps. Whatever works for your boat!
• Fenders:
Fenders are those round things that hang over the side of a boat to protect it from damage by other boats or docks. Landlubbers and boating "Newbies" may call them "bumpers", but they really are called "fenders". Remember, in order for fenders to protect your investment (boat), they must be large enough to do the job. Don't put 8" fenders on a 50' boat.
• Tool Kit:
You've heard of "Murphy's Law' right? Murphy was an optimist! Be sure to have a decent set of mechanics tools aboard should you have to make some unexpected repairs. Also, have some basic spare parts with you. Things like extra filters, drive belts, hoses, etc. can make all the difference between completing an enjoyable cruise and spending hours (days) waiting for a busy mechanic to fix your problem.
• Boat Hook:
Never, never, never stick a hand or a leg over the side of a moving boat to "help' in a docking or undocking situation. That's what a boat hook is for. Boat hooks can be repaired or replaced. The same can't always be said for arms, hands and legs.
• Good Flashlight:
Take my word for it, sooner or later you're really going to need one and when you do, you'll want one handy. Also, I suggest a secret stash of fresh batteries somewhere onboard. With nine grandchildren, my flashlights always seem to have dead batteries.
• First Aid Kit:
Bumps, bruises and cuts are pretty common occurrences when participating in water sports such as fishing, skiing, wakeboarding, etc. Therefore, a good first-aid kit should be a "Must Have Aboard" item.
• Sun Screen:
When it is sunny, you get a double dose of UV rays, both directly from the sun and indirectly from the reflection off the water. A water resistant sun screen of SPF 30 or more for skin protection should be a must have.
• Drinking Water:
I'm talking only pure water here; beer and soda don't count. If you're going to be out on the water for more than an hour or so, you should have at least a quart of water on board for each person aboard.
So, that's it; a short list of optional equipment. Everyone will probably have additional suggestions for "must have" items that a prudent skipper should have aboard. Plus, don't forget to take along all the mandatory equipment that the law requires. Well, it seems as if you're pretty well equipped now, so go enjoy your boating and remember, "Let's be safe out there"!
Is It New, Used or Used-up?
Is It New, Used or Used-up?
Your first decision when buying a boat is to decide what type of boat will best suit the way you plan to use it. The second decision is whether to look for a new or used boat.
Buying a new boat eliminates many problems. The engine and hull will be under warrantee, so any ugly surprises will, or should be, the problem of the manufacturer. There are, however, negative points to buying new. New boats have a very steep initial depreciation. An old joke goes this way: Drive your new boat around the lake once and it's no longer worth what you still owe on it. New boats come with little or no equipment, all of which must be purchased and installed. Finally, for the same amount of money that you might spend on a used boat, a new boat will have to either be smaller, or made by a company that keeps the cost down by cutting corners.
If at this point you're thinking "Maybe I should look at a used boat that suits my needs and gets more bang for the buck", here are some tips on what to look for.
Who built the boat? Is the company still in business? What is the company's reputation? Can they be contacted for information and/or replacement parts?
Has the boat been cared for or abused? It's really pretty easy to tell.
Check out an obvious part of the boat, say, the upholstery. If it's in bad shape, odds are that the owner hasn't taken proper care of the engine, the drive unit, the wiring, the hull, etc., etc., etc. Generally, an owner either takes good care of the entire boat (not just parts or systems) or he or she doesn't.
Is the boat for sale because the owner is moving up to a larger boat? This would indicate to me that the seller is really into boating and has probably taken good care of the boat. On the other hand, if the boat is a bank repossession, it may have been owned and operated by an irresponsible person who did little, if any, maintenance or upkeep.
Does the boat have all the equipment that I need? If so, is it already installed and does it all work properly?
Does the boat have a maintenance log? It should have one which lists all of its oil changes, tune-ups and repairs.
Was the boat used extensively for fishing? Trolling at dead slow speed day after day is very hard on both the engine and the drive system.
You may have noticed that I haven't mentioned the age of the boat. I feel that the boat's age is not nearly as important as the quality of the boat's construction, how well it was maintained and how it was normally used!
Before you buy any used boat, have it surveyed and appraised by a knowledgeable professional. This will either buy you peace of mind, or keep you from making a serious mistake.
Keep this sobering thought in mind: You've found what you think is the perfect boat, you can afford it and you're convinced you're going to love that boat. At the very same moment, the person selling the boat is equally convinced that getting rid of it is going to make their life a whole lot better!
Finally, it has been my experience that, after the first few years, a well-built, well-maintained boat does not depreciate in value very much. As a matter of fact, some older production boats (Bertram, for instance) and custom boats (such as Rybovich), are now selling for more money than they originally sold for some thirty-plus years ago.
Happy hunting on your quest for the perfect boat!
Your first decision when buying a boat is to decide what type of boat will best suit the way you plan to use it. The second decision is whether to look for a new or used boat.
Buying a new boat eliminates many problems. The engine and hull will be under warrantee, so any ugly surprises will, or should be, the problem of the manufacturer. There are, however, negative points to buying new. New boats have a very steep initial depreciation. An old joke goes this way: Drive your new boat around the lake once and it's no longer worth what you still owe on it. New boats come with little or no equipment, all of which must be purchased and installed. Finally, for the same amount of money that you might spend on a used boat, a new boat will have to either be smaller, or made by a company that keeps the cost down by cutting corners.
If at this point you're thinking "Maybe I should look at a used boat that suits my needs and gets more bang for the buck", here are some tips on what to look for.
Who built the boat? Is the company still in business? What is the company's reputation? Can they be contacted for information and/or replacement parts?
Has the boat been cared for or abused? It's really pretty easy to tell.
Check out an obvious part of the boat, say, the upholstery. If it's in bad shape, odds are that the owner hasn't taken proper care of the engine, the drive unit, the wiring, the hull, etc., etc., etc. Generally, an owner either takes good care of the entire boat (not just parts or systems) or he or she doesn't.
Is the boat for sale because the owner is moving up to a larger boat? This would indicate to me that the seller is really into boating and has probably taken good care of the boat. On the other hand, if the boat is a bank repossession, it may have been owned and operated by an irresponsible person who did little, if any, maintenance or upkeep.
Does the boat have all the equipment that I need? If so, is it already installed and does it all work properly?
Does the boat have a maintenance log? It should have one which lists all of its oil changes, tune-ups and repairs.
Was the boat used extensively for fishing? Trolling at dead slow speed day after day is very hard on both the engine and the drive system.
You may have noticed that I haven't mentioned the age of the boat. I feel that the boat's age is not nearly as important as the quality of the boat's construction, how well it was maintained and how it was normally used!
Before you buy any used boat, have it surveyed and appraised by a knowledgeable professional. This will either buy you peace of mind, or keep you from making a serious mistake.
Keep this sobering thought in mind: You've found what you think is the perfect boat, you can afford it and you're convinced you're going to love that boat. At the very same moment, the person selling the boat is equally convinced that getting rid of it is going to make their life a whole lot better!
Finally, it has been my experience that, after the first few years, a well-built, well-maintained boat does not depreciate in value very much. As a matter of fact, some older production boats (Bertram, for instance) and custom boats (such as Rybovich), are now selling for more money than they originally sold for some thirty-plus years ago.
Happy hunting on your quest for the perfect boat!
How To Find The Perfect Boat
How To Find The Perfect Boat
Questions to Ask When Shopping For a Boat
With the start of what I call the boat buying season (boat shows and the approach of spring), many of us are getting the itch to seek out the "perfect boat" that will make the new owner and every member of his or her family happy. Well, good luck!
Before you start looking for a boat, there are some questions you really need to ask yourself, the first mate and the crew.
What type or style of boat will be best suited for your planned use?
I saw an advertisement for a boat that stated it was built "without compromise." This statement flies in the face of the fact that all boats have to make some compromises. Many factors such as compromising between speed and sea keeping ability, interior space and stability, weight and strength - and on and on - will never be ideal.
A boat that is designed primarily for wake-boarding is not going to be suitable for cruising. A bass boat is probably not going to be much fun for a day on the water with the wife and three little kids. And so it goes. Decide what your primary use of the boat is going to be.
• Where will you do most of your boating?
Will most of your boating be on the open seas, costal waters, well protected small lakes or in a river? A houseboat or a pontoon boat will be great in protected waters, but just awful, even dangerous, in the open sea or in exposed coastal water areas.
Boats manufactured in European Union Countries must carry a plate, attached to the hull, that states exactly where that boat can be safely operated. I, for one, would like to see that happen on this side of the Big Pond as well. Take a look at my article on stability to learn more about those conditions that make for the safe operation of a boat. A boat that’s properly designed to meet the conditions that you will most likely to be facing is an absolute must if you and your crew are going to enjoy the time you spend on the water.
• How large a boat do you need?
How much size will you need in order to be able to do all of the things that you want to do? All boats appear to be very large when they are sitting in the showroom. Believe me, they all shrink drastically when you put them in the water. Make sure the boat that you buy has enough capacity to carry the entire crew, your water toys and all of the other gear and equipment that you will be using. I seldom see a boat for sale because it's too large, but I do see a lot of boats for sale because the owner is looking for a bigger boat. Boat size, along with design, material and construction are the factors that determine how seaworthy a vessel will be.
• How much will it cost to maintain the boat?
Beyond the initial cost of the boat, you‘ve got to consider the cost of upkeep, operating it (fuel,supplies, etc.), maintenance (parts and repairs), cost of dockage and the cost of storage. Taking classes in engine maintenance, marine electronics and the general care and feeding of your new boat is a must in my opinion. Otherwise, you had better be wealthy enough to pay a mechanic or repairman $70 or more per hour to maintain and fix things for you. Some boaters claim that the word BOAT really stands for Bring On Another Thousand!
• Get advice from other boaters.
Get as much advice as possible from other knowledgeable boaters about brands, types, engines, layouts, etc. of boats that interest you. I’ve never met a boater that doesn’t love talking about boats. If you can get the dealer to supply you with the names of several people who already own one of the boats that you are interested in buying, so much the better. Also, you can check the United States Coast Guard’s INFOLINE (1-800-368-5647) to see if there have been any customer complaints or recalls on the brand you are considering.
• Beware of a used boat.
If you are looking at a used boat and the condition of the gel coat, the upholstery and the hardware is not very good or not what it should be, don’t let the seller try to convince you that regardless of the exterior, the engine and the drive system have been maintained in pristine condition. It has been my experience that if the boat is fouled up on the outside, it’s probably worse on the inside.
Questions to Ask When Shopping For a Boat
With the start of what I call the boat buying season (boat shows and the approach of spring), many of us are getting the itch to seek out the "perfect boat" that will make the new owner and every member of his or her family happy. Well, good luck!
Before you start looking for a boat, there are some questions you really need to ask yourself, the first mate and the crew.
What type or style of boat will be best suited for your planned use?
I saw an advertisement for a boat that stated it was built "without compromise." This statement flies in the face of the fact that all boats have to make some compromises. Many factors such as compromising between speed and sea keeping ability, interior space and stability, weight and strength - and on and on - will never be ideal.
A boat that is designed primarily for wake-boarding is not going to be suitable for cruising. A bass boat is probably not going to be much fun for a day on the water with the wife and three little kids. And so it goes. Decide what your primary use of the boat is going to be.
• Where will you do most of your boating?
Will most of your boating be on the open seas, costal waters, well protected small lakes or in a river? A houseboat or a pontoon boat will be great in protected waters, but just awful, even dangerous, in the open sea or in exposed coastal water areas.
Boats manufactured in European Union Countries must carry a plate, attached to the hull, that states exactly where that boat can be safely operated. I, for one, would like to see that happen on this side of the Big Pond as well. Take a look at my article on stability to learn more about those conditions that make for the safe operation of a boat. A boat that’s properly designed to meet the conditions that you will most likely to be facing is an absolute must if you and your crew are going to enjoy the time you spend on the water.
• How large a boat do you need?
How much size will you need in order to be able to do all of the things that you want to do? All boats appear to be very large when they are sitting in the showroom. Believe me, they all shrink drastically when you put them in the water. Make sure the boat that you buy has enough capacity to carry the entire crew, your water toys and all of the other gear and equipment that you will be using. I seldom see a boat for sale because it's too large, but I do see a lot of boats for sale because the owner is looking for a bigger boat. Boat size, along with design, material and construction are the factors that determine how seaworthy a vessel will be.
• How much will it cost to maintain the boat?
Beyond the initial cost of the boat, you‘ve got to consider the cost of upkeep, operating it (fuel,supplies, etc.), maintenance (parts and repairs), cost of dockage and the cost of storage. Taking classes in engine maintenance, marine electronics and the general care and feeding of your new boat is a must in my opinion. Otherwise, you had better be wealthy enough to pay a mechanic or repairman $70 or more per hour to maintain and fix things for you. Some boaters claim that the word BOAT really stands for Bring On Another Thousand!
• Get advice from other boaters.
Get as much advice as possible from other knowledgeable boaters about brands, types, engines, layouts, etc. of boats that interest you. I’ve never met a boater that doesn’t love talking about boats. If you can get the dealer to supply you with the names of several people who already own one of the boats that you are interested in buying, so much the better. Also, you can check the United States Coast Guard’s INFOLINE (1-800-368-5647) to see if there have been any customer complaints or recalls on the brand you are considering.
• Beware of a used boat.
If you are looking at a used boat and the condition of the gel coat, the upholstery and the hardware is not very good or not what it should be, don’t let the seller try to convince you that regardless of the exterior, the engine and the drive system have been maintained in pristine condition. It has been my experience that if the boat is fouled up on the outside, it’s probably worse on the inside.
Tuesday, May 1, 2007
Used Boat Buying Checklist
For general boat buying tips see Boat Buying Guide - Part I. There you'll find tips on deciding on the purpose of your boat and the body of water you'll be using, costs, maintenance and warranty issues, dealer reputation, word of mouth, boat shows, NMMA certification, propeller type, time of year to buy a boat, and more.
Use the following checklist when purchasing a used boat.
USED BOAT BUYING CHECKLIST
Test Drive
You wouldn't buy a car without test driving it first, would you? Same holds true with a boat, even more so than a car. Boats are finicky animals. They tend to require more attention and maintenance than cars. When you test drive the boat pay close attention to the following things while underway:
- Vibration
If it vibrates it could mean a variety of things like a bent propeller. A vibrating boat makes a noisy boat.
Functioning Trim
If you're looking at an inboard/outboard boat check to make sure the trim works, which allows the motor to move from the down position to the angled position.
- Response
Rapidly, but carefully, test the steering from one direction to another to see how long it takes the boat to respond.
- Planing
Check to see how long it takes the boat to plane after take off.
- Shifting
Does the boat slip smoothly into gear, or does it jump?
- Reverse
Make sure the boat works in reverse. You never know how important this is until you have to dock.
- Gauges and Instruments
Check the temperature, RPM, and speedometer for proper function.
- Bilge
Make sure it is doing it's job. If your test ride is not long enough to tell, when you get back to the dock run some water in the engine hole with a water hose until the bilge kicks in.
It's a good idea to take along several people on the test drive. Added weight in a boat can affect it's performance and quickness.
HOURS
Check to see how many hours are on a boat. You measure a car's use by miles and a boat's use by hours. If a boat has more than 500 hours you can expect to pay some money in upgrades and maintenance.
CHECK FOR FLOOR ROT
Wood and water don't mix, especially in the floor of a boat. Carefully inspect the floor for soft spots, which indicate rot. Don't be afraid to get on your hands and knees and smell for floor for mildew.
MAINTENANCE
Ask for a maintenance history on the boat. Find out what major repairs have been made to the boat. If a lot of work has been done to the boat, chances are there will be lots to come, which translates into dollars. Ask if the boat is still under warranty. Also, ask who the boat owner used for repairs and make a point to talk to them.
MARINE SURVEY
It's a good idea to have a qualified marine mechanic thoroughly inspect the boat before purchasing it. To find a marine surveyor call either the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors - SAMS. If you are going to do it yourself check the spark arrestors and plugs, alternator, belts, hoses, strainer, blower, shift cables, engine alignment, etc. Analyze the oil and make sure it is not cloudy or gritty Cloudy oil can mean the engine block is cracked.
HULL CONDITION
Take a walk around the boat and inspect the hull and make sure it is in good condition. Feel free to tap on the hull all the way around and make sure the hull is consistently solid. Mismatched paint is a sign the boat has been in an accident. Also check for gel-coat blisters and dry rot.
PROPELLER
Check the prop for warping, cracks, or nicks. Any of these things can throw off the performance of the boat.
STORAGE
How has the boat been stored while not in use? Was is stored outside and exposed to the sun and weather? Or was it kept in protected dry storage?
UPHOLSTERY
Depending on how the boat was stored can affect how the upholstery has held up over the years. Check for ripped seams and color fading. Also check the boat cover if there is one.
EXTRAS
It's nice if the owner will sell the boat with a few extras which are probably already on the boat. In my opinion, a depth finder is crucial. You don't want the boat to run aground, much less let your skier run aground. In most states a marine radio is required by law. A stereo is a nice thing to have so you can listen to tunes. Also see if the boat owner will throw in some life jackets and an anchor. And if you are a lucky slalom skier they may throw in a speed control device.
TRAILER
If a trailer comes with the boat you want to buy check the trailer thoroughly. They are not cheap to replace.
N.A.D.A. BOAT APPRAISAL GUIDE
Locate the boat in the N.A.D.A. Guide to find out the price value range for the model and year. Remember, if the boat is priced at the low end or lower than the low end it's likely the boat's had a history of problems and there is a reason the owner wants to get rid of the boat.
Use the following checklist when purchasing a used boat.
USED BOAT BUYING CHECKLIST
Test Drive
You wouldn't buy a car without test driving it first, would you? Same holds true with a boat, even more so than a car. Boats are finicky animals. They tend to require more attention and maintenance than cars. When you test drive the boat pay close attention to the following things while underway:
- Vibration
If it vibrates it could mean a variety of things like a bent propeller. A vibrating boat makes a noisy boat.
Functioning Trim
If you're looking at an inboard/outboard boat check to make sure the trim works, which allows the motor to move from the down position to the angled position.
- Response
Rapidly, but carefully, test the steering from one direction to another to see how long it takes the boat to respond.
- Planing
Check to see how long it takes the boat to plane after take off.
- Shifting
Does the boat slip smoothly into gear, or does it jump?
- Reverse
Make sure the boat works in reverse. You never know how important this is until you have to dock.
- Gauges and Instruments
Check the temperature, RPM, and speedometer for proper function.
- Bilge
Make sure it is doing it's job. If your test ride is not long enough to tell, when you get back to the dock run some water in the engine hole with a water hose until the bilge kicks in.
It's a good idea to take along several people on the test drive. Added weight in a boat can affect it's performance and quickness.
HOURS
Check to see how many hours are on a boat. You measure a car's use by miles and a boat's use by hours. If a boat has more than 500 hours you can expect to pay some money in upgrades and maintenance.
CHECK FOR FLOOR ROT
Wood and water don't mix, especially in the floor of a boat. Carefully inspect the floor for soft spots, which indicate rot. Don't be afraid to get on your hands and knees and smell for floor for mildew.
MAINTENANCE
Ask for a maintenance history on the boat. Find out what major repairs have been made to the boat. If a lot of work has been done to the boat, chances are there will be lots to come, which translates into dollars. Ask if the boat is still under warranty. Also, ask who the boat owner used for repairs and make a point to talk to them.
MARINE SURVEY
It's a good idea to have a qualified marine mechanic thoroughly inspect the boat before purchasing it. To find a marine surveyor call either the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors - SAMS. If you are going to do it yourself check the spark arrestors and plugs, alternator, belts, hoses, strainer, blower, shift cables, engine alignment, etc. Analyze the oil and make sure it is not cloudy or gritty Cloudy oil can mean the engine block is cracked.
HULL CONDITION
Take a walk around the boat and inspect the hull and make sure it is in good condition. Feel free to tap on the hull all the way around and make sure the hull is consistently solid. Mismatched paint is a sign the boat has been in an accident. Also check for gel-coat blisters and dry rot.
PROPELLER
Check the prop for warping, cracks, or nicks. Any of these things can throw off the performance of the boat.
STORAGE
How has the boat been stored while not in use? Was is stored outside and exposed to the sun and weather? Or was it kept in protected dry storage?
UPHOLSTERY
Depending on how the boat was stored can affect how the upholstery has held up over the years. Check for ripped seams and color fading. Also check the boat cover if there is one.
EXTRAS
It's nice if the owner will sell the boat with a few extras which are probably already on the boat. In my opinion, a depth finder is crucial. You don't want the boat to run aground, much less let your skier run aground. In most states a marine radio is required by law. A stereo is a nice thing to have so you can listen to tunes. Also see if the boat owner will throw in some life jackets and an anchor. And if you are a lucky slalom skier they may throw in a speed control device.
TRAILER
If a trailer comes with the boat you want to buy check the trailer thoroughly. They are not cheap to replace.
N.A.D.A. BOAT APPRAISAL GUIDE
Locate the boat in the N.A.D.A. Guide to find out the price value range for the model and year. Remember, if the boat is priced at the low end or lower than the low end it's likely the boat's had a history of problems and there is a reason the owner wants to get rid of the boat.
Boat Buying Guide - Part II
WARRANTIES
Extremely important. No matter how new your boat is, warranties can vary tremendously. This is an area in which you do lots of comparison shopping. If purchasing a new boat be sure to go with a boat manufacturer that stands firmly behind their product and is going to rise to the occasion when things go wrong. Boatbuying.com outlines things to consider when dealing with warranties.
NMMA CERTIFIED
Make sure the boat is certified by the National Marine Manufacturers Association. The NMMA standards exceed the basic regulations set by the U.S. Coast Guard.
DEALER REPUTATION
Extremely important. This could make or break your boating experience. Make sure their service department is reputable and have quick turn around on repairs.
To find a dealership in your area see the Dealerships / Sales links list.
WORD OF MOUTH
Find other people who own or have previously owned the brand or model of the boat you are considering purchasing. They can shed light on areas you may have never considered. Other boat owners will tell you the truth.
BOATING SAFETY
Take a safe boating course BEFORE you hit the water. The Water and Boating Safety Resources links page is an excellent source of boating courses and has great links to start instilling boat and water safety in your mind. Make sure that everyone who will be operating or just riding in the boat takes a safety course as well. Don't over look knowing the proper way to tow a skier and how to retrieve a downed skier safely. Also see Drivers Corner, Boating Tips, and the article, "How Fast Should You Go?" which explains boat speeds for different boat towed sports.
PROPELLER TYPE
Three or four blade? Four blades are more expensive, however they have a quicker hole shot and has a smoother spin. Three blades allow a little more top end speed. Prop manufacturers.
ATTEND A BOAT SHOW
Boat shows are a great place to start your boat shopping. For starters, there will be lots of manufacturers under the same roof, saving you travel time to multiple dealerships. Dealers often offer boat show discounts. Popular times of the year for boat shows are in the beginning of the year and the fall. To find a boat show in your area see the Boat Shows links list.
TIME OF YEAR TO BUY A BOAT
Buying at the beginning of the year will allow you to have your pick of the litter. You'll get more choices with colors, features, and special orders. Buy in the spring when everyone is getting boat fever and expect to pay more for your boat. Larger demand, larger price tag. Buy in the fall or later and you'll get lower prices when dealers are looking to unload boats before the new models hit the showroom.
Extremely important. No matter how new your boat is, warranties can vary tremendously. This is an area in which you do lots of comparison shopping. If purchasing a new boat be sure to go with a boat manufacturer that stands firmly behind their product and is going to rise to the occasion when things go wrong. Boatbuying.com outlines things to consider when dealing with warranties.
NMMA CERTIFIED
Make sure the boat is certified by the National Marine Manufacturers Association. The NMMA standards exceed the basic regulations set by the U.S. Coast Guard.
DEALER REPUTATION
Extremely important. This could make or break your boating experience. Make sure their service department is reputable and have quick turn around on repairs.
To find a dealership in your area see the Dealerships / Sales links list.
WORD OF MOUTH
Find other people who own or have previously owned the brand or model of the boat you are considering purchasing. They can shed light on areas you may have never considered. Other boat owners will tell you the truth.
BOATING SAFETY
Take a safe boating course BEFORE you hit the water. The Water and Boating Safety Resources links page is an excellent source of boating courses and has great links to start instilling boat and water safety in your mind. Make sure that everyone who will be operating or just riding in the boat takes a safety course as well. Don't over look knowing the proper way to tow a skier and how to retrieve a downed skier safely. Also see Drivers Corner, Boating Tips, and the article, "How Fast Should You Go?" which explains boat speeds for different boat towed sports.
PROPELLER TYPE
Three or four blade? Four blades are more expensive, however they have a quicker hole shot and has a smoother spin. Three blades allow a little more top end speed. Prop manufacturers.
ATTEND A BOAT SHOW
Boat shows are a great place to start your boat shopping. For starters, there will be lots of manufacturers under the same roof, saving you travel time to multiple dealerships. Dealers often offer boat show discounts. Popular times of the year for boat shows are in the beginning of the year and the fall. To find a boat show in your area see the Boat Shows links list.
TIME OF YEAR TO BUY A BOAT
Buying at the beginning of the year will allow you to have your pick of the litter. You'll get more choices with colors, features, and special orders. Buy in the spring when everyone is getting boat fever and expect to pay more for your boat. Larger demand, larger price tag. Buy in the fall or later and you'll get lower prices when dealers are looking to unload boats before the new models hit the showroom.
Boat Buying Guide - Part I
Boat Buying Guide - Part I
- Avoid disappointment and do your homework.
Once you fall in love with power boating there's no turning back. It's in your blood forever. Shopping for a new boat can be challenging. So many decisions to be made and so many things to consider. It's often a bigger decision than buying a car, which is essentially a means of transportation to get you from point A to point B.
A boat is usually a multipurpose investment that can be used for waterskiing, wakeboarding, barefooting, tubing, jumping, fishing, riding to your favorite hangout, weekend getaways, and more. And each of these events sometime require different qualities in a boat to get the best performance.
Before you take the boat buying plunge let me clue you in on two of the most widely spoken quotes in the boating world. "The happiest day of a boat owner's life is the day they buy the boat and the day they sell the boat" and "Boats are nothing more than holes in the water, into which you throw money."
Sounds so gloomy, doesn't it? It doesn't have to be. That's why it is so crucial for you to do your homework prior to purchasing a boat. Most people who are about to buy a boat have visions of nonstop fun on the water, but the reality is boats can be lots of work and require extreme care and regular maintenance in order for that fun on the water to be long lasting.
If you're still up to the challenge and responsibility of being a boat owner, use following checklist to go by when purchasing a boat.
BOAT BUYING CHECKLIST
PURPOSE OF THE BOAT
Decide what your main purpose(s) for the boat will be. Do you want it strictly for tournament waterskiing or strictly for recreational wakeboarding? Or do you have kids that like to do a little bit of everything behind the boat? Will it mainly be a fishing boat that you'll occasionally want to water-ski behind? These factors will determine your engine type (inboard, inboard/outboard, or outboard). Boats.com explains some tips in its article, "Choose the right type of boat for your needs."
BODY OF WATER YOU'LL BE USING
Larger, more wide open bodies of water require bigger boats, or those with V-drives or inboard/outboard engines. Larger boats handle rough water better than smaller boats. Direct drive boats are good for smaller lakes that generally have smooth water. Serious slalom skiers usually prefer direct drives and serious wakeboarders prefer V-drives. If your body of water is large and often chops up a bow-rider may not be the best choice. You don't want to run the risk of water coming in over an open bow.
COSTS
How much can you afford? Saving money on a purchase up front can cost you in the long run. Be sure to buy quality. Remember to take into consideration the following costs beyond the actual price of the boat and your monthly payments: insurance, boat and trailer registration fees, taxes, fuel, docking/mooring fees, storage, and equipment such as lifevests, fire extinguishers, flares, marine radio, anchor, dock lines, and a trailer if needed. When the boat is not in use you'll want to give it proper storage. Boats.com explains storage options in its article, "Learn the best way to store your boat."
Don't over look maintenance and repair costs to the boat. This can be the most discouraging factor to a boat owner. On average these annual costs averages around $50 per foot (boat length), however they can be significantly higher, depending on if you do the work yourself, or you let a marina do the work for you. This is not an area in which you want to skimp. Good maintenance habits can add years to your boat and save you many pounding headaches.
Also consider these optional items, depending on your water sports preferences: water skis, wakeboards, wet suits, towables (tubes), tow ropes and gloves, weight system for wakeboarding, pylon, boom, tower, etc.
http://waterski.about.com/od/boats/a/buying_a_boat.htm
- Avoid disappointment and do your homework.
Once you fall in love with power boating there's no turning back. It's in your blood forever. Shopping for a new boat can be challenging. So many decisions to be made and so many things to consider. It's often a bigger decision than buying a car, which is essentially a means of transportation to get you from point A to point B.
A boat is usually a multipurpose investment that can be used for waterskiing, wakeboarding, barefooting, tubing, jumping, fishing, riding to your favorite hangout, weekend getaways, and more. And each of these events sometime require different qualities in a boat to get the best performance.
Before you take the boat buying plunge let me clue you in on two of the most widely spoken quotes in the boating world. "The happiest day of a boat owner's life is the day they buy the boat and the day they sell the boat" and "Boats are nothing more than holes in the water, into which you throw money."
Sounds so gloomy, doesn't it? It doesn't have to be. That's why it is so crucial for you to do your homework prior to purchasing a boat. Most people who are about to buy a boat have visions of nonstop fun on the water, but the reality is boats can be lots of work and require extreme care and regular maintenance in order for that fun on the water to be long lasting.
If you're still up to the challenge and responsibility of being a boat owner, use following checklist to go by when purchasing a boat.
BOAT BUYING CHECKLIST
PURPOSE OF THE BOAT
Decide what your main purpose(s) for the boat will be. Do you want it strictly for tournament waterskiing or strictly for recreational wakeboarding? Or do you have kids that like to do a little bit of everything behind the boat? Will it mainly be a fishing boat that you'll occasionally want to water-ski behind? These factors will determine your engine type (inboard, inboard/outboard, or outboard). Boats.com explains some tips in its article, "Choose the right type of boat for your needs."
BODY OF WATER YOU'LL BE USING
Larger, more wide open bodies of water require bigger boats, or those with V-drives or inboard/outboard engines. Larger boats handle rough water better than smaller boats. Direct drive boats are good for smaller lakes that generally have smooth water. Serious slalom skiers usually prefer direct drives and serious wakeboarders prefer V-drives. If your body of water is large and often chops up a bow-rider may not be the best choice. You don't want to run the risk of water coming in over an open bow.
COSTS
How much can you afford? Saving money on a purchase up front can cost you in the long run. Be sure to buy quality. Remember to take into consideration the following costs beyond the actual price of the boat and your monthly payments: insurance, boat and trailer registration fees, taxes, fuel, docking/mooring fees, storage, and equipment such as lifevests, fire extinguishers, flares, marine radio, anchor, dock lines, and a trailer if needed. When the boat is not in use you'll want to give it proper storage. Boats.com explains storage options in its article, "Learn the best way to store your boat."
Don't over look maintenance and repair costs to the boat. This can be the most discouraging factor to a boat owner. On average these annual costs averages around $50 per foot (boat length), however they can be significantly higher, depending on if you do the work yourself, or you let a marina do the work for you. This is not an area in which you want to skimp. Good maintenance habits can add years to your boat and save you many pounding headaches.
Also consider these optional items, depending on your water sports preferences: water skis, wakeboards, wet suits, towables (tubes), tow ropes and gloves, weight system for wakeboarding, pylon, boom, tower, etc.
http://waterski.about.com/od/boats/a/buying_a_boat.htm
Monday, April 30, 2007
Sailboat Buying Guide
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
- First Time Boat Buyer Tips
- Boat Buying Guide I
- Boat Buying Guide II
- How to find a perfect boat?
- Is It New, Used or Used-up?
- Boating Equipment that every boat needs
- Must Have Boating Equipments
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
- First Time Boat Buyer Tips
- Boat Buying Guide I
- Boat Buying Guide II
- How to find a perfect boat?
- Is It New, Used or Used-up?
- Boating Equipment that every boat needs
- Must Have Boating Equipments
Sailboat Buying Guide - International Buying
Sailboat Buying Guide - International Buying
Sara Clemence
International Buying
Buying a boat overseas presents its own problems, but when you fall in love with a boat, it can be worth it.
There are special considerations to take into account if you are buying a boat abroad, especially if you plan to hire it out for charter.
A foreign-built boat that is registered in the United States cannot legally be chartered with a crew, says Bob Leslie of Northrop and Johnson. It can be hired out for "demise charter"--without a crew--and the difference is sometimes just a question of paperwork. If you're going to charter a boat in the U.S, say the experts, it's far simpler to buy a hull built domestically.
Boats bought in Europe may be subject to local taxes, says Leslie. A boat purchased abroad is also subject to import taxes (1.8% of the cost of a new boat or the appraised value of a used boat). You can bring a boat over and get a six-month renewable cruising permit, but if you plan to keep it in the U.S. permanently or sell it, you have to register it and pay the tax.
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sara Clemence
International Buying
Buying a boat overseas presents its own problems, but when you fall in love with a boat, it can be worth it.
There are special considerations to take into account if you are buying a boat abroad, especially if you plan to hire it out for charter.
A foreign-built boat that is registered in the United States cannot legally be chartered with a crew, says Bob Leslie of Northrop and Johnson. It can be hired out for "demise charter"--without a crew--and the difference is sometimes just a question of paperwork. If you're going to charter a boat in the U.S, say the experts, it's far simpler to buy a hull built domestically.
Boats bought in Europe may be subject to local taxes, says Leslie. A boat purchased abroad is also subject to import taxes (1.8% of the cost of a new boat or the appraised value of a used boat). You can bring a boat over and get a six-month renewable cruising permit, but if you plan to keep it in the U.S. permanently or sell it, you have to register it and pay the tax.
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sailboat Buying Guide - Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
Sailboat Buying Guide - Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
Sara Clemence
Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
Shop around at the Annapolis Sailboat Show.
When you buy a new boat "off the rack," you may be able to choose the color and a few of the features, but most of the details will have been decided by the manufacturer. On the other side of the boat-buying spectrum is a vessel built entirely from scratch to your specifications: "It's a blank piece of paper, and the sky's the limit," says Gibbons-Neff of Sparkman and Stephens.
"What kinds of tolerance do you have for decision making?" asks Hinckley's Bennett. If the answer is "none," then a custom-built yacht it not for you, unless you're willing to hire a manager to oversee the project.
The middle option is the semi-custom boat, which has an off-the-rack hull but fittings designed to your specifications. You can choose the sail plan, the fittings and the layout of the boat. (Do you want your stateroom to be in the center of the boat or the stern?)
A custom boat can take two years or more to build, but a previously owned boat--once you find the one you want--can be delivered immediately. You might not be getting the latest equipment, but it can be replaced. A used boat with a beautiful exterior and aging parts can be refitted, though at a cost. And a used boat has already proven its ability to weather the water.
It may not make sense to set your heart on a new, used or custom boat at the start of the decision-making process. Looking at used boats on the market may steer you towards a custom-built boat.
To get a feel for different looks and layouts, hit the boats shows that are held around the country year-round. The Annapolis Sailboat Show, the largest in the U.S., takes place in October; Strictly Sail Chicago is at the end of January, and Pacific Sail Expo is in April.
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sara Clemence
Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
Shop around at the Annapolis Sailboat Show.
When you buy a new boat "off the rack," you may be able to choose the color and a few of the features, but most of the details will have been decided by the manufacturer. On the other side of the boat-buying spectrum is a vessel built entirely from scratch to your specifications: "It's a blank piece of paper, and the sky's the limit," says Gibbons-Neff of Sparkman and Stephens.
"What kinds of tolerance do you have for decision making?" asks Hinckley's Bennett. If the answer is "none," then a custom-built yacht it not for you, unless you're willing to hire a manager to oversee the project.
The middle option is the semi-custom boat, which has an off-the-rack hull but fittings designed to your specifications. You can choose the sail plan, the fittings and the layout of the boat. (Do you want your stateroom to be in the center of the boat or the stern?)
A custom boat can take two years or more to build, but a previously owned boat--once you find the one you want--can be delivered immediately. You might not be getting the latest equipment, but it can be replaced. A used boat with a beautiful exterior and aging parts can be refitted, though at a cost. And a used boat has already proven its ability to weather the water.
It may not make sense to set your heart on a new, used or custom boat at the start of the decision-making process. Looking at used boats on the market may steer you towards a custom-built boat.
To get a feel for different looks and layouts, hit the boats shows that are held around the country year-round. The Annapolis Sailboat Show, the largest in the U.S., takes place in October; Strictly Sail Chicago is at the end of January, and Pacific Sail Expo is in April.
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sailboat Buying Guide - Turning A Profit
Sailboat Buying Guide - Turning A Profit
Sara Clemence
Turning A Profit
Top-quality boats not only look terrific, they also hold their value better.
While some experts say that you should never expect to profit on the sale of a boat, others believe that with the proper maintenance, a boat can retain or increase its value.
"Very high-quality boats hold their values and don't depreciate much," says Northrop and Johnson's Bob Leslie. While smaller medium- and lower-quality boats do depreciate, the drop in value is not as dramatic as with a car, taking place mostly over the first two or three years. The percentage of depreciation varies widely from boat to boat.
A boat's condition can change its value by as much as 30%. "As you're using the boat, you're consuming it," Leslie says. "You're wearing out the sails, the pumps."
"If a boat is kept in excellent condition and upgraded constantly, there's a good chance it will hold its value or be worth even more than [the owner] paid," Leslie says. "But the owner has to have a very high commitment to maintaining the boat."
Nevertheless, a boat is still a precarious investment. As with art, the main return on your money, if all goes as planned, will be in pleasure.
"The only reason to buy a boat is therapy," says Mitchell Gibbons-Neff of Sparkman & Stephens. "When you go to bed at night, instead of thinking about the hassles in your day, you think about where you're going to go next on your boat."
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sara Clemence
Turning A Profit
Top-quality boats not only look terrific, they also hold their value better.
While some experts say that you should never expect to profit on the sale of a boat, others believe that with the proper maintenance, a boat can retain or increase its value.
"Very high-quality boats hold their values and don't depreciate much," says Northrop and Johnson's Bob Leslie. While smaller medium- and lower-quality boats do depreciate, the drop in value is not as dramatic as with a car, taking place mostly over the first two or three years. The percentage of depreciation varies widely from boat to boat.
A boat's condition can change its value by as much as 30%. "As you're using the boat, you're consuming it," Leslie says. "You're wearing out the sails, the pumps."
"If a boat is kept in excellent condition and upgraded constantly, there's a good chance it will hold its value or be worth even more than [the owner] paid," Leslie says. "But the owner has to have a very high commitment to maintaining the boat."
Nevertheless, a boat is still a precarious investment. As with art, the main return on your money, if all goes as planned, will be in pleasure.
"The only reason to buy a boat is therapy," says Mitchell Gibbons-Neff of Sparkman & Stephens. "When you go to bed at night, instead of thinking about the hassles in your day, you think about where you're going to go next on your boat."
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sailboat Buying Guide - Pedigree Counts
Sailboat Buying Guide - Pedigree Counts
Sara Clemence
Pedigree Counts
The classic Lightning, one of the great day sailers of all time.
Years ago, the choice of boat builder was extremely important. "You had some lousy boat builders," says Jacques Mac Donald, agent for Mac Donald Yacht Brokerage in San Diego, Calif. "Today, all manufacturers are paying much more attention to the way they build their boats."
But a boat's origins still matter. A top naval architect and builder will not only give you a better boat. "Names influence the value of a boat," says Gibbons-Neff of Sparkman & Stephens. "It's like a Mercedes is better than a Ford." A boat designed by a big-name architect will often hold its price better, even though the design makes up only 4% to 10% of the original cost of a boat. Still, warns Bob Leslie of blue-chip yacht brokers Northrop and Johnson, a good builder can turn out a bad boat if the buyer wants to cut corners on the construction.
If you're having a boat made to your specifications, you want to deal with a boat-building or design company that has and will be around in the long term, in case there is ever a problem. "You don't want the first boat ever produced by a company," says Phil Bennett of Hinckley, which has been building ships since 1928. "The number of small builders that literally produce a couple of boats and then go bankrupt is tremendous."
Sparkman & Stephens, which has been designing boats for 70 years, has created everything from military boats and classic day sailers such as the Lightning and Blue Jay, to America's Cup defenders and multimillion-dollar pleasure sailboats.
Equally impressive is the record of Farr Yacht Design in Annapolis, Md., which has planned more than two dozen boats for the Volvo Ocean Race--formerly known as the Whitbread Round-the World Race.
Ron Holland, formerly with Sparkman & Stephens, is particularly known for big boats. He designed the largest single-masted boat ever, the 245-foot Mirabella V, which is currently under construction.
The Hinckley Company, based in Maine, is one of the premiere builders of semi-custom boats. Their classic, elegant sailing yachts are built with lavish attention to details.
Finnish company Nautor Swan builds luxury sailing yachts, many of which are designed by Sparkman & Stephens, German Frers and Ron Holland. Nautor also owns U.K.-based Camper and Nicholsons, which specializes in refittings and restorations.
http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/24/0724sport_5.html
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sara Clemence
Pedigree Counts
The classic Lightning, one of the great day sailers of all time.
Years ago, the choice of boat builder was extremely important. "You had some lousy boat builders," says Jacques Mac Donald, agent for Mac Donald Yacht Brokerage in San Diego, Calif. "Today, all manufacturers are paying much more attention to the way they build their boats."
But a boat's origins still matter. A top naval architect and builder will not only give you a better boat. "Names influence the value of a boat," says Gibbons-Neff of Sparkman & Stephens. "It's like a Mercedes is better than a Ford." A boat designed by a big-name architect will often hold its price better, even though the design makes up only 4% to 10% of the original cost of a boat. Still, warns Bob Leslie of blue-chip yacht brokers Northrop and Johnson, a good builder can turn out a bad boat if the buyer wants to cut corners on the construction.
If you're having a boat made to your specifications, you want to deal with a boat-building or design company that has and will be around in the long term, in case there is ever a problem. "You don't want the first boat ever produced by a company," says Phil Bennett of Hinckley, which has been building ships since 1928. "The number of small builders that literally produce a couple of boats and then go bankrupt is tremendous."
Sparkman & Stephens, which has been designing boats for 70 years, has created everything from military boats and classic day sailers such as the Lightning and Blue Jay, to America's Cup defenders and multimillion-dollar pleasure sailboats.
Equally impressive is the record of Farr Yacht Design in Annapolis, Md., which has planned more than two dozen boats for the Volvo Ocean Race--formerly known as the Whitbread Round-the World Race.
Ron Holland, formerly with Sparkman & Stephens, is particularly known for big boats. He designed the largest single-masted boat ever, the 245-foot Mirabella V, which is currently under construction.
The Hinckley Company, based in Maine, is one of the premiere builders of semi-custom boats. Their classic, elegant sailing yachts are built with lavish attention to details.
Finnish company Nautor Swan builds luxury sailing yachts, many of which are designed by Sparkman & Stephens, German Frers and Ron Holland. Nautor also owns U.K.-based Camper and Nicholsons, which specializes in refittings and restorations.
http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/24/0724sport_5.html
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sailboat Buying Guide - Bigger can be better, but..
Sailboat Buying Guide - Bigger can be better, but..
Sara Clemence
Bigger Can Be Better, But...
Pretty but needs a crew of four.
A bigger boat means more space, stability and speed. "Sailboats today have the necessary horsepower to behave like a motorboat," says Mitchell Gibbons-Neff of Sparkman & Stephens. Long passages are far more comfortable on larger boats, and hydraulic systems and roller-furling sails have made it possible to handle boats with fewer people.
It doesn't make sense to build a custom boat that is less than 40 feet. "It's not anywhere near cost-effective," says Gibbons-Neff. "If you take the nicest production boat and try to make an equivalent custom boat, you'll spend at least twice as much." The cost of a 70-foot custom boat could be comparable to a high-end production boat.
But extra footage can also mean extra headaches. The Zingaro, a 114-foot luxury sailboat currently for sale at Sparkman & Stephens, requires a crew of four: a captain, engineer, mate and cook. The captain alone would be paid $90,000 per year, says Gibbons-Neff, and "a professional crew is harder to find than a good boat."
The larger a boat, the harder it can be to maintain and repair. Not all boatyards can handle large boats, so you may find yourself moving the boat around just to find a place that can accommodate it.
"You can have as much fun in a 15-footer as in a 45-footer," Gibbons-Neff says. For example, he volunteers that Sparkman & Stephens makes a 15-foot high-performance dinghy for $50,000.
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sara Clemence
Bigger Can Be Better, But...
Pretty but needs a crew of four.
A bigger boat means more space, stability and speed. "Sailboats today have the necessary horsepower to behave like a motorboat," says Mitchell Gibbons-Neff of Sparkman & Stephens. Long passages are far more comfortable on larger boats, and hydraulic systems and roller-furling sails have made it possible to handle boats with fewer people.
It doesn't make sense to build a custom boat that is less than 40 feet. "It's not anywhere near cost-effective," says Gibbons-Neff. "If you take the nicest production boat and try to make an equivalent custom boat, you'll spend at least twice as much." The cost of a 70-foot custom boat could be comparable to a high-end production boat.
But extra footage can also mean extra headaches. The Zingaro, a 114-foot luxury sailboat currently for sale at Sparkman & Stephens, requires a crew of four: a captain, engineer, mate and cook. The captain alone would be paid $90,000 per year, says Gibbons-Neff, and "a professional crew is harder to find than a good boat."
The larger a boat, the harder it can be to maintain and repair. Not all boatyards can handle large boats, so you may find yourself moving the boat around just to find a place that can accommodate it.
"You can have as much fun in a 15-footer as in a 45-footer," Gibbons-Neff says. For example, he volunteers that Sparkman & Stephens makes a 15-foot high-performance dinghy for $50,000.
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sailboat Buying Guide - Broker
Sailboat Buying Guide - Broker
Going For Brokers
Sara Clemence
Let the brokers do the work.
The more expensive a boat you are considering, the more essential it is to have a good broker. Not a good broker selling the boat to you, but a good broker working for you in the marketplace, helping you find a used or custom-made boat that fits your needs, is well built and is priced fairly.
A broker will bring a huge body of knowledge to the process, understanding about different makes and models of boats, and a network of other brokers to draw upon for information.
If you act on your own, searching the boating magazines and online listings (such as those on yachtworld.com), any broker you call about a vessel will be working for himself, trying to sell you that particular boat. Instead, call many brokers and find one to work with exclusively.
"It doesn't matter what boat you buy. He wants to meet your needs and specifications," says Bob Leslie, managing director for the Massachusetts office of Northrop and Johnson, a 50-year-old yacht brokerage that specializes in large boats. "Let the broker do all the work."
A good broker will be a member of the Yacht Brokers Association of America (YBAA) or the local equivalent (a European broker should be a member of the Mediterranean Yacht Brokers Association). A member broker must be an individual contractor working for a brokerage firm and must follow a set of guidelines, most of which are designed to protect the consumer.
YBAA members have at least one year of professional experience, but make sure yours has at least five years and is backed by an established brokerage with a strong reputation, says Leslie. Advertisements in a national or international publication such as Yachting or Boat International indicate that a brokerage is solid. California and Florida brokers must be licensed, and other states have certification requirements. As in all cases, however, personal references are often the most valuable.
Prospective brokers should ask lots of questions, trying to assess your needs. "They should be in input mode instead of output mode," Bennett says. "If it appears that they are trying to sell you something, just hang up. It should not be an adversarial relationship."
As with real estate, there is usually a boat broker on the seller's side and on the buyer's side. When a sale is completed, the seller pays the broker's commission, usually 10%, with 3% going to the buying broker.
http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/24/0724sport_3.html
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Going For Brokers
Sara Clemence
Let the brokers do the work.
The more expensive a boat you are considering, the more essential it is to have a good broker. Not a good broker selling the boat to you, but a good broker working for you in the marketplace, helping you find a used or custom-made boat that fits your needs, is well built and is priced fairly.
A broker will bring a huge body of knowledge to the process, understanding about different makes and models of boats, and a network of other brokers to draw upon for information.
If you act on your own, searching the boating magazines and online listings (such as those on yachtworld.com), any broker you call about a vessel will be working for himself, trying to sell you that particular boat. Instead, call many brokers and find one to work with exclusively.
"It doesn't matter what boat you buy. He wants to meet your needs and specifications," says Bob Leslie, managing director for the Massachusetts office of Northrop and Johnson, a 50-year-old yacht brokerage that specializes in large boats. "Let the broker do all the work."
A good broker will be a member of the Yacht Brokers Association of America (YBAA) or the local equivalent (a European broker should be a member of the Mediterranean Yacht Brokers Association). A member broker must be an individual contractor working for a brokerage firm and must follow a set of guidelines, most of which are designed to protect the consumer.
YBAA members have at least one year of professional experience, but make sure yours has at least five years and is backed by an established brokerage with a strong reputation, says Leslie. Advertisements in a national or international publication such as Yachting or Boat International indicate that a brokerage is solid. California and Florida brokers must be licensed, and other states have certification requirements. As in all cases, however, personal references are often the most valuable.
Prospective brokers should ask lots of questions, trying to assess your needs. "They should be in input mode instead of output mode," Bennett says. "If it appears that they are trying to sell you something, just hang up. It should not be an adversarial relationship."
As with real estate, there is usually a boat broker on the seller's side and on the buyer's side. When a sale is completed, the seller pays the broker's commission, usually 10%, with 3% going to the buying broker.
http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/24/0724sport_3.html
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sailboat Buying Guide - Location
Sailboat Buying Guide - Location
Sara Clemence
Where you sail (which is related to how you sail) will influence the size of the boat and the systems you have on board.
In the Northwest or Maine, for example, the water is deep enough that you don't have to worry about how far your keel goes into the water. But try squeezing a 16.5-foot draft into Long Island Sound or Chesapeake Bay, and you may be in for an unpleasant grounding. A very tall mast can also restrict your sailing area, as it may not clear low bridges. Conversely, while you can take a 30-footer across an ocean, you probably don't want to.
If you're sailing in Bora Bora, says Phil Bennett of Hinckley, you'll want to carry a single sideband radio, which can communicate over thousands of miles. "If you're sailing in Annapolis, all you need is a VHS and a cell phone."
Location can also determine your water and fuel systems. In most of the United States, you can refill your water tanks with a hose at a dock. If you're traveling to the Caribbean, where water sources may not be reliable, you had better have a water-making system on board.
If you're buying a used boat, where it has been sailed can affect its condition. Saltwater is far more corrosive than fresh water. In the United States, the freshwater sailing season, which takes place in the Great Lakes, is relatively short. More-expensive boats are often stored indoors, so they have less exposure to the elements, says Mitchell Gibbons-Neff, president of Sparkman & Stephens, a venerable boat design and brokerage firm based in New York City and Ft. Lauderdale. But beware freshwater with wooden boats, which are prone to rot.
http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/24/0724sport_2.html
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sara Clemence
Where you sail (which is related to how you sail) will influence the size of the boat and the systems you have on board.
In the Northwest or Maine, for example, the water is deep enough that you don't have to worry about how far your keel goes into the water. But try squeezing a 16.5-foot draft into Long Island Sound or Chesapeake Bay, and you may be in for an unpleasant grounding. A very tall mast can also restrict your sailing area, as it may not clear low bridges. Conversely, while you can take a 30-footer across an ocean, you probably don't want to.
If you're sailing in Bora Bora, says Phil Bennett of Hinckley, you'll want to carry a single sideband radio, which can communicate over thousands of miles. "If you're sailing in Annapolis, all you need is a VHS and a cell phone."
Location can also determine your water and fuel systems. In most of the United States, you can refill your water tanks with a hose at a dock. If you're traveling to the Caribbean, where water sources may not be reliable, you had better have a water-making system on board.
If you're buying a used boat, where it has been sailed can affect its condition. Saltwater is far more corrosive than fresh water. In the United States, the freshwater sailing season, which takes place in the Great Lakes, is relatively short. More-expensive boats are often stored indoors, so they have less exposure to the elements, says Mitchell Gibbons-Neff, president of Sparkman & Stephens, a venerable boat design and brokerage firm based in New York City and Ft. Lauderdale. But beware freshwater with wooden boats, which are prone to rot.
http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/24/0724sport_2.html
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sailboat Buying Guide - Intro
Sailboat Buying Guide - Intro
Sara Clemence
Buying a boat can seem a lot like buying a car. Choose the model, color and accessories, cut a check and you're done. In fact, it's far more complicated that that--more like buying a house. A house that floats.
There are a limited number of car manufacturers and a seemingly infinite number of boat companies. All cars have four wheels, while sail configurations can vary widely. There are dozens, even hundreds, of factors that come into play when buying a boat. What size? What brand? New? Used? Custom-built? Will it have racing sails? A washer and dryer? Wood trim? What kind of wood? What kind of stain?
"A boat can be a very emotional purchase," says Phil Bennett, senior sales director for The Hinckley Company, which has been building luxury boats since 1928. But because it can be a complicated process, fraught with fantasy, buying a sailboat is part love, part logic. You may imagine yourself at the helm of that 70-foot wooden racing boat, but it may not suit your real-life needs. Bennett advises: "Make sure that you use a little bit of rational thinking, or you may end up with more boat than you need."
As with cars, safety is paramount in a boat. "You don't try to get the best price on a parachute," says Bennett. "This boat is going to be carrying you and your family offshore. It is in itself a safety item."
http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/24/0724sport.html
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Sara Clemence
Buying a boat can seem a lot like buying a car. Choose the model, color and accessories, cut a check and you're done. In fact, it's far more complicated that that--more like buying a house. A house that floats.
There are a limited number of car manufacturers and a seemingly infinite number of boat companies. All cars have four wheels, while sail configurations can vary widely. There are dozens, even hundreds, of factors that come into play when buying a boat. What size? What brand? New? Used? Custom-built? Will it have racing sails? A washer and dryer? Wood trim? What kind of wood? What kind of stain?
"A boat can be a very emotional purchase," says Phil Bennett, senior sales director for The Hinckley Company, which has been building luxury boats since 1928. But because it can be a complicated process, fraught with fantasy, buying a sailboat is part love, part logic. You may imagine yourself at the helm of that 70-foot wooden racing boat, but it may not suit your real-life needs. Bennett advises: "Make sure that you use a little bit of rational thinking, or you may end up with more boat than you need."
As with cars, safety is paramount in a boat. "You don't try to get the best price on a parachute," says Bennett. "This boat is going to be carrying you and your family offshore. It is in itself a safety item."
http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/24/0724sport.html
Sailboat Buying Guide
1. Intro
2. Location
3. Brokers
4. Bigger can be better, but..
5. Pedigree Counts
6. Turning a Profit
7. Used? New? Custom? In-Between?
8. International Buying
Friday, April 13, 2007
How to buy a boat without getting burnt!
How to buy a boat without getting burnt!
Or most things you need to know about buying a boat but have no one to ask.
(by Rod Lynch)
G'day, my name's Rod Lynch and I live beside the sea, in a place called Wollongong, about 50 miles south of Sydney, Australia.
I went to sea as a deck boy back in 1964 and I've spent the last 20 odd years sailing on and off, cruised Australia's East Coast a couple of times, done a bit of boat building and run a brokerage for a while.
Why am I writing this? 'Cos I hate seeing people's dreams turn into nightmares. It's always intrigued me why 19 out of 20 first time boat owners buy a pup. They simply buy their first boat for all the wrong reasons. (As I did, I might add!)
What's the best type of boat to buy? Well, 'best' is one of those 'relative' words. 75% or 80% of boats on the market today are neglected. The average Joe (or Jo-ann) assumes a coat of paint or polish will restore it, W-R-O-N-G! Let's talk about a neglected yacht.
Most people's first boat is in the $20,000 to $50,000 range. Buying the wrong powerboat can cost you big time later. The wrong sailboat the same.
A collapsing rig could put you in dire peril so you must re-rig it and step the mast and overhaul it and also replace halyards, say $5000. You can bet because the boat will be, on average, 15 to 20 years old, the sails will need to be replaced, at least a Main and a Jib or Genoa. Say $3500 Then there's the motor/s.
Now it or they may sound OK to you now, but the odds are sometime in the first couple of years it will probably die. Another $5000 to $10000.
Then we've got the hull, which, as time goes on will look uglier and uglier to you to the point where you'll want to spend more money to restore it.
Then there's the crappy wiring, the cushions are worn out, the timber- work is scuffed and the galley and head stink.
Need I go on? Does this reasonably describe the last few boats you've looked at, (check with your partner before you answer!)
Sounds depressing doesn't it, don't despair, just follow some sensible advice and you'll be out on the water in your new boat, sailing or cruising with new friends and having a ball.
The golden rule when buying a boat is: BUY QUALITY!!! NOT QUANTITY!!!
Look at those words! Stare at them till they're engraved in your brain!
I have never in my life, met any boat owner who's ever had enough money to buy the boat they had in mind. whether it's $20,000 $50,000 or $250,000
It's amazing but true.
I've owned a lot of different boats and I can tell you it's a fact. I guess it's true every time we make a major purchase, we just seem to be short of dollars for that thing we want to buy.....
http://www.firstboat.com/howtobuy.html
Or most things you need to know about buying a boat but have no one to ask.
(by Rod Lynch)
G'day, my name's Rod Lynch and I live beside the sea, in a place called Wollongong, about 50 miles south of Sydney, Australia.
I went to sea as a deck boy back in 1964 and I've spent the last 20 odd years sailing on and off, cruised Australia's East Coast a couple of times, done a bit of boat building and run a brokerage for a while.
Why am I writing this? 'Cos I hate seeing people's dreams turn into nightmares. It's always intrigued me why 19 out of 20 first time boat owners buy a pup. They simply buy their first boat for all the wrong reasons. (As I did, I might add!)
What's the best type of boat to buy? Well, 'best' is one of those 'relative' words. 75% or 80% of boats on the market today are neglected. The average Joe (or Jo-ann) assumes a coat of paint or polish will restore it, W-R-O-N-G! Let's talk about a neglected yacht.
Most people's first boat is in the $20,000 to $50,000 range. Buying the wrong powerboat can cost you big time later. The wrong sailboat the same.
A collapsing rig could put you in dire peril so you must re-rig it and step the mast and overhaul it and also replace halyards, say $5000. You can bet because the boat will be, on average, 15 to 20 years old, the sails will need to be replaced, at least a Main and a Jib or Genoa. Say $3500 Then there's the motor/s.
Now it or they may sound OK to you now, but the odds are sometime in the first couple of years it will probably die. Another $5000 to $10000.
Then we've got the hull, which, as time goes on will look uglier and uglier to you to the point where you'll want to spend more money to restore it.
Then there's the crappy wiring, the cushions are worn out, the timber- work is scuffed and the galley and head stink.
Need I go on? Does this reasonably describe the last few boats you've looked at, (check with your partner before you answer!)
Sounds depressing doesn't it, don't despair, just follow some sensible advice and you'll be out on the water in your new boat, sailing or cruising with new friends and having a ball.
The golden rule when buying a boat is: BUY QUALITY!!! NOT QUANTITY!!!
Look at those words! Stare at them till they're engraved in your brain!
I have never in my life, met any boat owner who's ever had enough money to buy the boat they had in mind. whether it's $20,000 $50,000 or $250,000
It's amazing but true.
I've owned a lot of different boats and I can tell you it's a fact. I guess it's true every time we make a major purchase, we just seem to be short of dollars for that thing we want to buy.....
http://www.firstboat.com/howtobuy.html
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